Visiting Panama on the way to Ecuador and Peru. Yeah!!

Cool shots of Panama City

Can’t believe it. Camilla and I are gonna stop off for a few days with our dear friends Josie and Diana in Panama City Panama. Hey it’s on the the way – on the way to us tour guiding the BCT Ecuador + Peru trip which includes attending the  English DC is Guayaquil Ecuador and the Peru Branch in Lima and then on to Macchu Picchu   Just a little over a month and we’ll be there. Never been to Panama City Panama so really looking forward to it.

Panama City is at the crossroads of two oceans and two continents. Everywhere in this steamy, tropical town are people from around the world enjoying coffee shops and wine bars along the oceanfront promenades. Due to all the hype many local residents are calling Panama City the “Dubai of the Americas.” They’re only half-joking.

Found a few places I want to try out.  Just a rough sketch of day 1 so as to get a feel for Days 2, 3, 4, and 5 – Sorry for being a little long winded on this one but we are so excited :D

Day ONE: 

1) FAST BOAT, SLOW BOAT

See the Panama Canal from the vantage of the ships that use it. Maybe we’ll take the “rapida” (fast boat) to Taboga Island, the day trip of choice for beach-obsessed Panamanians. The 30-minute, 12-mile trip ($6) departs from the Amador Causeway, a palm tree-lined peninsula built from canal construction debris, and makes its way through the maze of freighters lined up at the waterway’s mouth. Taboga, nicknamed the Island of Flowers, is famous for its varied flora, its tan beachesand its fish shacks. Splash in the warm Pacific before returning on the slow boat, the Calypso Queen Ferry ($6). (The U.S. dollar is the paper currency of Panama, though it is also referred to as the balboa.)

2) WINE, THEN DINE

Casco Viejo, the city’s formerly dilapidated colonial quarter, has turned the corner. The area still buzzes with a creative energy. But, for good or for ill, the old town seems comfortable in its newly painted, nouveau riche skin. We want to watch the sun set with a glass of wine or a cold Panamanian cerveza in view of the mangroves in front of La Rosa de los Vientos. Then After sunset, explore the artscene. Many of the galleries are also excellent little out of the way cafes.

3) MOONLIT PROMENADE

Walk off dinner on the promenade. Then kill an hour at DiVino Enoteca enotecadivino.com), a wine bar with Iberian ham hanging behind the counter and black-and-white movies playing silently on a far wall. We’ll look over the lounge’s art, food and design books.

Stay tuned for my (Ro of RoCaPhoJo) next blog about Day two and who knows but that the very next blog may be the very first blog of Jo of RoCaPhoJo!!

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2012 in Ecuador + Peru

RoCaPho has added a new user/writer/photographer who will be traveling and writing with BCT this year to Ecuador and Peru with a stop over in Panama. Her name is Josie and will be affectionately called JoGo or Jo of RoCaPhoJo. JoGo will be traveling with BCT owners Rocky & Camilla and will be posting blogs by means of FB and Messenger and through the normal WordPress portal. A different crew who will experience new and exciting adventures in their south and Central America travels. JoGo’s writing and picture taking style will be different than Pho’s of RoCaPhoJo’s but not doubt will be very informative and enjoyable full of lots of travel tips and adventure. Her first stop will be possibly be Panama so expect a few stores from there.

Most this blog was written to test out wordpresses post a blog by email function and if it works this could very well be the main means of keep you informed and up-to-date about BCT’s Ecuador and Peru 2012 trip.

The Ecuador and one Ecuador + Peru trip(s) are sponsored by BCT this year and here are their links so you’ll have an idea of what’s gonna be highlighted and from where. Hope you can join us. JoGo has traveled to Ecuador with BCT often and a video of Her and her sister and Pho of RoCaPho was made and has been a very busy YouTube video. Here is the link to that video! It is the featured Video on both the BCT Owners RDSENT YouTube channel.

I attached a video to this email to see if pics will post… it’s of JoGo! No wait a minute I think that’s her sister JesGo :) Hope this works!!

Thank You RockyBethel Coach Tours BCT Facebook BCT YouTube 575-434-3944Phone Hours 11am to 4pm (mst) (m-f)

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Sand in my tooth paste, eggs in my soup: tips for traveling by bus through Ecuador and Peru

ROCA AND JOGO are going to peru this summer, … and in conversation while willie and I were making some geranium rubbing oil ( more on that later) Rocky asked me if I would write down any tips… things I wish I knew before hand for this trip.
[ THE BUS TRIP FROM THE BOARDER OF EQUADOR THROUGH THE PERUVIAN MOUNTAINS TO CUSCO]

so here goes.. (photo gallery below is hodge podge of road shots)

WHATEVER TIME FRAME YOUR GIVEN ADD 12hr:
The thing about bus trips in peru is they’re nicer than what you would expect in America because plane flights are fairly expensive for the average South American, so the buses offer a middle ground ; food services , movies and more accommodating ”facilities”{ as well as a first, second, and decidedly coach-like options}. However when you purchase your tickets you will be told that the trip from Equador to say Peru will take 22 hrs, that is a lie fabricated in the same fantasy land as the tooth fairy, and men who willingly do the dishes , 34-36 hrs is more realistic: because the terrain can be tricky your going over the freaking Andes on a two lane road and the weather can change in different altitudes , while your on the tropic side, …then you get to the desert side and its like your on Tatouine and the sand gets every where…EVERYWHERE.
WHAT TO BRING:
-wet wipes/ gel or spray disinfectant
-A thin medium size blanket
-dry snacks
-small change
-a comfy back pack
-socks
OK so lets go over a few essentials: you want to pack light : light enough that you can keep an eye on your stuff
(avoid letting anyone “help” you with your bags in overhead compartments)
-WET WIPES, Personally I’m like a camel when it comes to bathroom breaks.. still you want to be able to wash up/ freshen up and wipe down (whatever needs to be wiped down) in a moving PUBLIC bathroom. Now the bus may stop at a rest stop… in which case I RECOMMEND STRONGLY : flushable wipes, {unless you want to pay 5cents for five sheets of the thinnest toilet paper ever made}
-now soap may or may not be available hence the gel
-now blankets are good for wrapping up, and also covering your seats if needed.
- dry snacks: the meals are set :if this bothers you either bring your own food or I would recommend you look into one of BCTs European tour packages.
{ a typical meal might be lomo[beef] white rice, and pureed yuca}
-small change : if you want to offend by all means ask the kid selling fried bananas for 2 soles if he can break a fifty, otherwise please try to pay with close to exact change.
- a back pack: its just convenient wear it preggo style and you have everything you need at your fingertips
-socks : going from wet- dry climates take care of your feet you’ll travel happier.

Now folks say the boarder is dangerous and all of that i experienced no danger but I wasn’t walking around drawing attention to myself either I bought snacks and ate at the bus station terminal … wich was awesome i strongly recommend it i love peruvian cuisine and for about three bucks {usd} you can get sopa crioya [Creole soup] which has steak [beef usually] curry noodles, and a fried egg ; delicious,( although i would recommend stocking up on aqua de coco to stay healthy and hydrated whenever eating heavier cuisine)
OK, thats all for now , please write in if you have specifics .

live well-pj

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The Manso : home for now

Some things remain consistent even while changing.

I’m staying at the Manso, tonight (sept 2011) I love it here (see pics below to c why), the staff is always attentive , always friendly (they give the service you used to get every where but can no longer find anywhere) and I can wake up and see the light hit the Guayas , have my coffee, eat breakfast ,look at the latest art exhibit …in my pajamas, never having left the building… I’ve spent days where I ate breakfast Lunch and dinner here ( a whole six dollar tab) but anywhere I could want to go is more or less in walking distance … I have peace here…here I have air conditioning .

Not only that but *,Internet , cable t.v, and lounge areas on every floor, I flopped over on a sofa bed right now … Willies getting a massage Rocky’s editing my articles.. In the lime room… All the rooms are either color or nature themed.. And Ricardo the owner is walking around taking pictures, constantly changing…improving and rearranging, but that’s why I like it here it’s a good place to rest before you get to wherever your going.

K, bye for now—pj

* not all of the rooms have these amenities , the dorm rooms are cheaper , and simpler .

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Cuernavaca: parties, plush digs… and worm tacos

tamarindo balls spiced with red chilli and served with lime.

The ride to  Cuernavaca to party in the Zocalo, is a few  hours by  bus  but the  sunday  market is well worth the ride [ free samples ranging from coffee & tequila to  traditional crafts  that go on for miles]  in-between  the  stands of sweet  and spicy the  blankets filled with  bohemian  jewelry  and children running around faces stained  with  slushy red and  tamarindo orange…  there is  music  playing  … bubble blowers  and  more  crafts….. but really a picture  or video is worth so much more*

My friends  [ Rocky& Willie] have a travel company* that  does  a day trip here  basically just  to  shop … and  go  to a very plush hotel/ restaurant called Las Mananitas a buitiful ( not just beautiful) place  that alone would be reason enough  to  pay a visit ( and not that  they need another  plug but  theres nothing on the   menu over 30.00usd so it is  affordable)

HOW TO EAT FRIED WORMS:MEXICAN STYLE

THE WORMS

However  my  main purpose in going to the restaurant  was  now peace and tranquility   it was worms…. Maguay(?)  worms  to  be exact  (the  french have snails the mexicans have  worms what do we have in the states?) in any  case  yeah  along with my  green salad  I  had a few of the  deep-fried critters , taste kinda bacon… and dirt .   It was a good day.

live well==pj

LAS MANANITAS :garden patio

Tacos for sale: street food still my favethe most stoic bubble man

.....

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Mojigangas : cross dressing for the lord… or something

….So while I was out  studying with folks  and buying chicken … the traffic in Taxco   gets backed up … what ever it happens , and after four weeks of the hot water knob on the shower  falling on  my  foot  every  morning ( now  I’m totally serious EVERY morning) I’ve learned to let to let the small the  small things slide .. so I get up to the roof  and Rock is there looking at his phone … giggling, ( this isn’t  really unusual for  our  weird little group so … I go  to the   outdoor  kitchen area  and begin to  prepare my foul… but the giggling continues  and I cant help myself  I ask   rocky* whats up?  and he responds by showing  me a video on his I-phone  wich begins ( actually it  began with a  funeral but that was lost on me untill later)   with  a  highschool ban of  young men of mixed  ages  … then a few ugly [ albeit " abundantly blessed"] women in tacky outfits and  matted hair  march in dancing jumping …mugging men* … shaking cars  and singing,  ” what is this ?” i ask  Rocky,  who  replies  ” no idea  but  some people  told me this: on a sheet of paper is  scralled mojigangas en  honor de  san Martin de Tadeo ” well what does that mean?” ..” no idea”

luckily Cati was  on the patio  sweeping  so  I asked her,”ah  the mojigangas” she says  ” they’re men who dress up as  women on  a patron saints birthday…. and they dance  so that  men will give  them money…[ totally serious] ‘ so what happens if the  men  don’t give them money?’ ..” well the  men  shake  and grab the men and take them  away, it’s for the  church” , she was totally sincere , ‘  but  of course ‘ i reply.   After some time passes   a few friends from Taxco show up  and explain the   whole  process further …

THE PROCESS

Nobody is quite sure  when the tradition of  the mojigangas got its start, but it seems  to be unique to  Taxco,   and yes    from young boy to old man the intention is to raise  money  for the  local barios  chapel . In some neighborhoods  the mojigangas  will even break into homes and  steal  the men away until they give money … or their dance ability  ceases  to raise  funds.  The ladie..er fellas  do however  need a  permit to dance through the town  which they  file ahead of time  so at least  the  cops know their coming but  believe me  these ladies [ men dressed as ladies ] need no help  stopping traffic.

But  why take my  word  for it ? enjoy(*) 

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Wale watching / the open sea

Today myself and the group went to Puerto Lopez for some whale watching, it’s mating season for the humpback ,the males put on a good show ,unfortunately for them females can be fickle in all species,and well the girl they were fighting for wasn’t impressed or looking to settle, and she left.

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Boots, and the truth about bunny fur

It is four o´clock here in peru and I´m cold  I’ve spent the whole day looking for the prices of  hostels , food and any other thing that a first time visitor to Cuzco might wan´t to know about  but my feet are cold so I had  some boots made (I have a boot guy in peru now for anyone who´s interested ) but yeah I´m cold and a little sore from  the hike to Machu Picchu, I still haven´t milked my llama but I did follow one through the ruins so  I´m apeased for the moment but  yeah over all  good until I get to this store selling  alpaca scarves for twenty soles, and I  find them  absolutely lovely however after rubbing my face in them he tells me the ¨special bon bons¨ on th e end of the  scarf are made from rabbit fur, so I try debate with him whether it’s really necessary to kill the rabbits in order to get their  fur , at this point  the man is wondering where I´m going with this , but in the end we come to the conclusion that no  you can´t shave a bunny ( ok commercially speaking you can´t) so no i couldn’t buy the dead bunny scarf even though it  looked fab-u-lous in any case i´ll add some more pictures tonight

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The valley of longevity

We made it last night to the village of vilcabamba known by those who chase youth as the valley of longevity, because the people here tend to live longer with few if any serious health issues . This phenomenon occurs, I’m told because of the negative ionization in the air creates a natural chelation in the blood. as fascinating as that is i still cant figure out how to test this to see if I can feel the difference , I can say that the air is deliciously fresh, and aside from the slow hum of conversation at the breakfast table the whole valley seems respectfully quite.

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EL DIA TIPICO Vilcabambo

Some days you wake up and curse your youth,…. ok some days I wake up and curse my youth at least because it hinders me from  really complaining the way I would like  to. OK , that’s not really true  but I did wake up rather tired today sometimes , I think after a long stretch of being tired and  stressed , and maybe a little  discouraged  we wear ourselves out without realizing it after  three weeks of  sleeping in different hostels , buses , chairs  and during the rather long parts of some  conversations I thought I was all rested up , at least until this last morning  or two  I’ve woken up  exhausted , in a curiously  good sort of way , I figure this place may be good for me after all  even if the  quite freaks me out, all the walking*  and  “healthy eating” {my lunch today  consisted of fresh cheese, white wine, and ammaretto Julius, and  some kind of  baloney ham thing, and of course  Mara  fruit, yum} not to mention that the  market  in Loja is very much the market of the people , run exclusively by women ,  each stack of food has a due~na, sitting up  on high  able to get you exactly the fruit you want , where as next door you might find the  meat market full  of pigs heads and hanging  chickens, but no matter where you go  you  speak with someone, your never really alone , I like that its like social therapy  for cynics, and then   after a full day of exploring the  city it was time  for my friends and I to  head back which  involved in one  instance  a few songs sung by a young man  making his way through  Ecuador with  a ukalalayli and a smile.   All in all  it was a good day , even if I’m  no younger for it .

The title of the song was i believe “solo tengo  el sol y un flor, mi amor” {I only have the sun and a flower my love} its a popular tune but I  like the way he sang it better

This beautiful little girl and her mom  run one of the many  food stands{towers really} in the down town Loja  market ,  at the moment she was  cutting  her teeth on a bushel of parsley,  a gorgeous baby and a good mom always  good to see.

*havent found any english brothers or sisters just yet but we’ll see about that again tommorrow.

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Lost in Loja: The Ecuador Diet

                                                                                 Good morning to all, or as the great Truman would say “good morning, good afternoon , and good night”  for whenever you get this ,  time has remarkably little value  in the part of the world after 10:30, by that hour  your  either half way done with your  work  or  you  have very little intention   of getting much done  period. I’m attempting  to be more like the latter , at this climate  is  extremely conducive to good health, I figure I should be  using  this boost  to excercise but I really don’t need to as much as I did before I mean I’ve never been obese, but I have always had a high percentage of  body fat for a skinny chick, I mean seriously my thighs are like memory foam, no seriously  you could totally do the red wine glass test thing the do on infomercials with  like  maybe a port glass and a G.I. joe,and never spill a drop ,  but  in any case  between all the walking, up hill down  hill , and up again, the  fruit oriented breakfasts, plentiful  fish  and  really  hearty , but  healthfull dishes,  I’m like  “meh” why bother so much swinging in a hammock probably stabilizes  my core  or something , right?

Today me and the crew are headed  out to meet a british  brother by the name of Easter,  for a late lunch, to see where  we could be helpful and useful to the local congregation/community, seeing as the  trip  will require  a bus ride and a half K walk I  feel my lunch will be much deserved , and that should count as half a work out. right? Jenny Craig eat your heart out.

Three whole sensible meals and a light snack”

 *Above, mouse d’ maracuya{passion fruit}

*Below  glass of  the house white wine, fresh cheese, cubed ham, aoile sauce with cumin, maracuya, and an ammareto julius{ ammareto and o.j.}

 

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From Vilcabamba Loja with love: tips for travelers: pictures for lazy travelers

Today is officially  our last real day here in the  provencia de Loja a tear , but all in all  this has been a lovely trip met some interesting people  gleaned a little bit of knowledge all that good stuff, ok then so here is how we’re going to do this one kids first off we’ll start with  the travel

Para viajar,

No trip would really be authentic  in Ecuador with out hopping on the bus and  going  for a ride from one  pueblo to the next,   the buses are generally   pretty nice and modern especially the  ones going to or from  Loja, and  in general the longer ride buses ,   but a few things to keep in mind:

1. ask a local  first how much  the fare from one town to the next should be and if possible  have exact change,as there are no change meters, it’s not like being over charged is common , and the amount might be like a quarter  but  c’mon its easier this way for everybody.

2.  pee, for those of you with bladders the size of a walnut   please note the bus stops only for passengers getting on there is no toilet on the bus and  yes the terrain does usually pass by gently  rolling streams of fresh water

3.  the bus will get crowded, if your claustrophobic, consider a nice walk or a taxi, if your homophobic , or in general don’t like being  pressed against other men   get a window seat , or aim for a seat in the back , because when a bus does get full,and it will get  full max capacity  is when the door doesn’t close , well  lets just say  you need to have a good sense of balance,and self-awareness  in any respect . oh and ladies  for those of you  who would like firmer anything below the waist  ride  the bus uphill for about  thirty minutes every day  and  you should be able to crack walnuts with your thighs in about a year .

4. try  the local food , definitely  try  the  plato mixto at ‘equatorisma’, in loja  with a shot of naranjilla cotelle its a hot-shot of wonderful, {feeds about four} and you can only get it here in Ecuador, or  for vegetarians try  Papayas,  or Madre Teirra  in Vilcabamba both offer  hearty dead animal meals for those who like to eat dead things as well ,  the restaurant in Loja offers  lettuce, under the plate of dead things and some badtidos, also the  hosteria where we stayed : Izcayluma ,in Vilcabamba offers a variety  meals  including  german , western,and a  few other comfort food classics along with vegetarian  options, just  fyi

- also if you have a place with a kitchen the  Centro Comercial de Loja has great prices and  a large selection of fresh food  every thing from chickens feet  to  pastries and sweets

5. breath deep, and enjoy  this place its one of the most beautiful  countries , with the most varied landscapes  in all of south america, the people are warm and the weather is wonderful remember  to breath  and  enjoy where you are .

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Cuenca,

I’m told  by my sources  that Cuenca, is  as a whole city, a national treasure, due  to it’s incredibly  well-preserved colonial buildings, cathedrals  and  plazas,  I’m still  trying  to find out the details on the history of the city itself , but in general I think its lovely, 

 the city itself s basically  split in two with the  river running through it  a few old bridges  that double between  pedestrian/ traffic  go between , modern to  one side with sports arenas  and then you cross the  bridge  go up a series of  steps , and by series i mean   the mother of all stair masters   the rest of the city you’ll find has a few modern conviences like traffic lights and even occasionally indoor plumbing, although  you might find that the  “public” bathrooms are  a little too true  to form  for  some of  the more squirmy travelers out there. [ generally  you have an open  space , with a roof, in between two buildings   one or two stalls on one side , urinals opposite  the sinks , tp is about ten sheets for a dime  and the lady who sells the  tp, knits , concession snacks are generally available ] in general though the city  is a cultural  gem, and the inhabitants are well aware  of the fact, food is  well priced ,as is  lodging most hostels offer a clean bed for about seven bucks,   it has a little bit of everything except the  no llamas.

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Phojones tips for traveling; Ecuador

hello,hello  to all , so your going to south america yes and you’re wondering what  you should  do, bring ,  or maybe not bring? Here are a few tips I think might be useful  if you’re planing on coming to Ecuador specifically

But before we  get started lets assume your coming  to appreciate the nature, and general beauty of the country , and that you are neither  too high maintenance  or annoying so as to creat any stereotypes  that might make traveling difficult  for the rest of us ,ok? good, let’s get started

WHAT TO BRING

¿First of  how much roughing will you be doing?, if your camping or back packing hopefully your  looking for some one  with more first hand knowledge than me , i´m a hostel conosuer ,  on that note hostels¨take on  new light  in  south america  the price may range from 7-31 dollars usd. and may or may not include towels, soap, hot water  or private bath  usually though  the higher price  ¨hostels¨ now include amenities  that would make a hotel blush in inadequacy, so before anything  ask, or at least read amenities should be listed outside  near the name of the hostel

1. a small  towel, preferably thin and very absorbent ,i´m a big fan of the sham  wow but whatever, whether you’re at the beach or you just need to absolutely  know  who dried what,  with what, a personal towel is a is a must

2.pack light , most hotels , or hostels will not have an elevator, and you should be able to carry all , or at least most of your luggage , generally  I would say, pack half of what you think you need  and bring twice the  money you were going to bring.

cotton is your friend,

- a coat for  misty or wet weather is helpful  as well as galoshes if your going to be  needing to  be walking around much, although they are fairly cheap( 6-10 usd)  plastic flip-flops  work as well at keeping the cuties off if your shower floor seems suspect

-  bring smaller bills , and  gold dollars they are more durable and change is hard to come by , not to mention annoying  if you’re in line and the clerk has to run next door to break a twenty … stinking capitalist

- for those with longer hair a scrunchy, or boby pins

3. There are a few things here that are more expensive  due to import costs, that you would be better off bringing from home in a small  travel size container, if traveling with friends I would recommend that 1, you  each only bring a suite case small enough  to be considered ¨carry on¨ not so much for the planes but the buses  that you usually need to take  getting wherever there are no flights ,

2. Use the buddy system to your advantage  and pack all the things that you need that are cheaper, back home , but wont make it through customs as a carry on * and pack it in one suitecase,  and check that in,as  well as any bags  you don’t want to carry  on the first leg of your flight ,I just like to  have my stuff with me at all times .

3.  keep your passport with you at all times , you want to be able to get back home and  if you   have no papers that becomes very difficult

4,  ask for the prices of taxis, before you get in , and if possible  have the hostel call a driver they know and trust

5. food prices vary,  anywhere from .50 for an empanadas,  to 10.00-20.00 usd for a three coarse  meal , mostly though i can get a  breakfast(desayuno) for about 2usd and  lunch  or even a full lunch (almuerso; a set menu) for about 2.50usd at a local comedore although  street food  is a personal fave and for the price can’t be beat, people with germ  issues  should  avoid, i´ve never had any issues but they are selling food that tha occasionally may be touched with human hands so  you know use common sense.

* I have found this stuff a little more expensive here than in the states so you might  just as well  bring your own

- contact solution, hard to find as well

conditioner, shampoo

lotion,although the weather improves your skin

clothes,sweaters, pants , swim wear

-shoes, especially dressy shoes or  boots, even pay less is up here

-tampons ,since they’re so  rough on the septic ´systems and pose a health risk to   water systems ,they  are generally not sold in stores , women  are asked not  to flush them  ever .

-any kind of toner, or face wash that has been imported  or anything that helps control acne

-special vitamins

-anything for a baby

- coffee,  most is  instant  unless you ask for  cafe tinto, or you at a coffee specialty store, most  of the countries beans are exported the rest are  burned to a crisp,a few brands are pretty good though but if you don´t have time to shop around bring your  own grind  and ask if the hostel  will let you make it there

6. minimize the amount of jewelry you bring if any

7. be sure to bring  a water bottle you can fill up, avoid plastic if you can

8. a pillow case girls know why( keeps  your skin  fresher jic), but you can also  carry  dirty clothes in it if you need 

9. good socks , girls might even want to bring some tights, the footless kind,as they are th thin and help  with soo many things

10. a book, an i pod, and a digital camera, if you can , I prefer the  kind you can charge as opposed to batteries, but i take about 500 pics a week, if you have a batteries camera get good   lithium batteries   wich should last you about  600pics  and in here they run about 10.usd shop accordingly

 

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The whole way: Banos

  So I’m not really sure where I left you guys but we arrived in banos  finally , about a day or two ago , safely ,  Thank God. 

 So yeah ,  Banos, just outside of  AMBATO?  is in the oriente or the eastern half of Ecaudor { think jungle  with   lots of taffy stands} , its famous for its thermal baths  wich  get their juice from the local volcano, wich has not been active for  the last five months, so the drive here was pretty smooth, the  lava flows had obstructed  the road  for a while but they were scraped down before we got here  so  yay,  but today was my first bit of  field service work.

 for those of you  who aren’t  familiar with the term it  basically means I was out with the local congregation  of Jehovah’s witnesses , in this case  inviting every body , and I do mean  everybody , to the  district  convention , but today  we went out to the mountains.

 Witnesses and  Ecuadorean  people in general have one basic thing  in common  where there is a will there is a way ,  so somewhere along the way  some guy looks at this side of the  mountain and  he’s like you know what the side of that volcano needs?  a field of parsnips, and his friend  is like  yeah and maybe an orchard of tree tomatoes,  and generations later   their descendants are like why would  you let a perfectly  good   mountain  go to waste , you could totally  grow  corn there! And when witnesses look at a mountain they  see people , and  them they get hiking books that don’t clash with  a  book bag or a watchtower.

  So my day started in layers , boots and  riding in the back  of a Nisan frontier  with  twelve  other people , equa-dor-ean style! well  dressed and in rain boots,  and them we walked , we climbed  and  when there was no  trail, we still climbed  but it was muddy , everyone we met was polite , except for cha-cha a  small dog who  decided to bite me {  no worries he was like the size of a  Brooklyn rat}  and then once we  finished  we walked down back into the  down ,I think at some point people were concerned for  the health of this sweaty tourist, and started telling me about the  various mysterious ailments they’ve heard of people getting , such as  lovely kinds of bacteria  found on black biting flies,and  of course  I was told  not to  swim  in the  river I noticed was under the   beautiful  waterfalls just outside the city , yeah  those were pipes of like  open sewage so with that   knowledge in had I’ll be sure to   ask before I jump into any  bodies of water as I can’t  seem to tell the difference between  urine and  glacial streams  of  crystal clear water , in my defense  though, the water  itself , from a distance… did not look that bad … maybe the people are just more hydrated  here . 

OK then I’ll   write more  soon going to  go  in search of some health food

Tip OF The Day: for  good local  food or ” comida tipica” wait till the weekend  just about any place that’s  really  good and local will usually only work three  days a week , so  go for  the  traditional stuff fri- sat  anything else  on the week days

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Steam baths in Banos,

I could smell the eucalyptus  in my hair , and  I was beginning to become aware  of two things , one  I was sweaty heavily , and two though I couldn’t see it  I was  positive that my skin was peeling  off. I called for  the  attendant{ Diego}  and told him  that I could feel  my skin peeling off, ” don’t worry he said  it happens a lot to first timers, especially  americans “  and then  he  leaves, by this point sweat is  dripping down my back , and there is no doubt in my mind that  yes , my skin is peeling off, then  Diego is back  he tells me I am now to  run a towel of ice water  all over my body , wich is at first awkward  since instead of my usual  swim suite I’m in long bulky board shorts [ I had a sudden panic of modesty when I found out  that the baths were unisex  and that the only attendant was a  very young, possibly  even teenage boy]  even though the water is ice-cold at first  I feel good  relaxed even , and  as i sit in the box again  the steam seems less intense, this ritual is repeated about three or four times   until finally  I’m basically just hosed  down with cold water , lovely , now my skin is soft  and  some what  rosy , but all the health benefits are about to be lost as  I head out and about  to the market to-day in search  of  batteries, salty food , and  other miscellaneous  things , and I am happy to report that I have not had any coffee in three days and there have been no acts of violence or any serious withdrawals, I’m liking this natural setting , I might even just give up shaving , and meat all together , its funny how those two things seem to always go hand in hand isn’t it?  alright then I’ll  write  back soon—pj

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Bleeding hearts , Bob Dylan, the Finnish, and a missing virgin

I havent had coffee in about four days so I’m super sensitive  to … every thing like spidey sense  is like restless leg syndrome compare to my ability to feel the thread count  of the  blanket  on my bed for lack  of caffeine,  so I’m listening to  Bob  Dylan, {if you see her say hello} and  wandering around town ,   and I woke up around  five thirty  this morning and wandered down to the  baths , ” aquas  puras del  virgen” which are  more like thermal baths , hot and cold,  word to the wise … don’t go on the weekend  many people consider the water blessed and especially holy,  but at the same time its a  public bath  so  kind of imagine what and how  people  wash …. ok so there you go {pressing on} so  while I’m there I was visiting with a sister from the local hall  who  was patient enough to teach me  a little bit of  kichewa, such as  pagi ( pa- gee)  or thanks,  alli punje (ag-gee pun -je)  good morning and well you get the idea,  so I was grateful  and  not to bad  according to  some girls who came down for some water  of the virgin,  those girls have style,  green felt hats, fedora,   matching shawls , form-fitting grey skirts and  black shoes,  they look good and  because its cultural  and ethnic , never out of style {ring of fire featuring johnny cash} so  all happy   with my new linguistic skills,  I walked back into town  with an invite  to tea from some  new friends , the Krapos, a Finnish couple {no more auction block for me} who were  fantastic ,  and as  i found out as we walked up the flights ,to their very tasteful  apt, they were: a germaphobe  and a  and artist ,  shoes are not worn  in the home but sandals are provided  and the  colorful  acrylic based paintings {idiot wind}  focused on  some kind of  frog on LSD  attacking  german clowns and  hairy  rhinos ,

so as  we started to talk,  after I was offered coffee but opted for tea,  the krapos begin to talk  with the  crew about   different countries , politics  and  in general the  perception   of  americans in foreign countries and  visa versa , and   Mrs. k  tells me  about a finnish movie where some americans are  on the tube and  one older latter  looks  at another and asks “why do they talk so loud ? is something  wrong with their  hearing?”….. I’m not loud  I say , why would they   say that, then my pho sense  flash back kicks in and I remember being seated next to some  already  drunk american turist with east coast accents   screaming for a  “cor-un-uh” I could throw  my shoe at them {lord protect my child} so  I ask after a  minute  are we the loudest ?  …. “no , finally she says , germans  are about the same , and russians”   but  finland is right next to  russia [right?]  why  doesn’t  any one parody  russians ? they have really , really good bread, not as good as  finland  but  good , at this Point I have a mouth full of croissant , and I cant argue  with the logic ,{dignity},

So the day finishes up , kinda, and  every where i go i see faded flyers  of  festivals from days passed , for the pilgrimage of the virgin of  agua santa , in the street next to  my hostel , la chimenea,  there is a huge red heart  made of lemon size balls of red  paper, it’s started  to  tear from the rain and the wind it looks  like  its bleeding , the whole time I’ve been  in Ecuador its been on  the heels of some virgin or another {she belongs to me} in malacatos the  party lasts the whole month of august to receive  cisne,  santa anna  is said to  look after  Cuenca ,here  almost every  thermal bath is  looked at as being blessed by the holy  water of the mountain, but now they’re all gone school  will star soon, and I’ve heard no talk of  virgins , holy  or  otherwise, so i asked around , although i worry sometimes about how my questions come across since spanish is not my first language , but hey its a tourist town  I’m  sure it’s not the weirdest question that’s  every been asked , I asks  one older lady who  told me simply  that she was put away  until her time comes again,  how sad, I guess like anything else though the festivities  serve  the purpose of tradition  and give comfort  where it is asked  for. hopefully though in some way  the  tracts I left with the kitchewa  family , in kitchewa,  gave some sustainable  food for thought  and  comfort .

but  the day has come to a close  its been good but a  tad exhausting   I’ll keep looking for the missing virgin tomorrow  , and maybe its the  Dylan [don't think twice :the soundtrack to my personal life] but I don’t really feel bad about being a little left of center  here, cause I’m not to loud  and it’s not like I  the weirdest person here  … right ?

{ I’ll keep  it with mine }—pj

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Bahia de Caracas

still pretty ill but getting better , cant beleive the trip is alost over. Wouldn’t have the strength to peddle like this youngen’ 4 sure….. will soon though!

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Political parties and bottle rockets in Guayquil

 The  crew and I have left for  Guayquil ,  we left  the tranquil  waters of Banos  at six in the morning , we traveled out from some of the most beautifull mountains , and scenery  I have  ever seen and made our way through the coast , finally after about seven hours  we made it tho Guayaquil * and  settled  into the Manso, a boutique hosteria, known for  its eclectic style as well as its  healthy menu and  historic  location. Mostly  I like the  coffee and the staff ,  every one is very friendly here  and  helpful, … they  were even kind enough  to reassure me that the  loud  pops  I kept hearing were not  gun shots  but rather  bottle rockets , and what I at first thought was a protest was in fact a  political  rally , In the middle  of the   street during rush hour ,   nice.

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Did i mention the snake? Puyo vss Guayaquil

I’m in Guayaquil , sitting it  the amber room of the manso , listening to the sound of the  traffic  on streets  Guayaquil, seems , itself  a city of two  people,  very independent  modern flowers right  in with the  historical buildings  and the monuments and various gifts  from foreign   countries{ always  a statue of some sort , fruit basket doesn’t  cut it I guess}  my room looks right over the  river I say my room, soon  the girls will get here  the room has three beds  on a split level, it feels kinda like home but  i miss being able to wander at random  on the streets , don’t get me wrong the streets  in this  “hood”  are power washed every day ,  being in between two banks helps as well  every  where you look armed guards , so  all in an all this part of town feels very safe , serene even,

But,  while in banos  me and the crew took a day trip to Puyo, along with  our guide/taxi driver we hiked down  to the  devils  cauldron  got a literal taste of the falls, met and kissed a snake named Pataconez,   took in the beginning of the amazon: the  puyo river , which  I jumped in as fast as my clothes would come  off,  no worries though I had all the essential bits covered , surprisingly the river is still a common place for communal  bathing {clothing required} so I met some nice people who I think were wondering why the girl  seemed  so  sweaty, why her pants were wet before she got in the water and maybe why she  thought it was so great  to be swimming in their bath tub, don’t judge me. it was the  beginning of the amazon I had , at this point already kissed a snake , and  the water was actually kinda cold , so  you either  laugh  or  you cry in front of the  locals watching you, still   I loved it I don’t think I can swim in the  river here , for one it never stops being brown, or smelling like a river , wich I don’t think is a good indicator  of freshness: like when fish smells like fish = bad … when feet smell like feet=bad, but I cant complain too much there is a pirate ship  parked  in the bay across the street , and I can see people   taking pictures with  statues in the park , and the  sound of traffic is strangely  comforting, maybe I’ll get some sleep  tonight .

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A blue thread and Friends

When I  was little  I used to make up  my  friends , not imaginary  friends, exactly , more like  I gave the  ability of friendship to  animals , and things that realistically wouldn’t  care less  if I asked them to braid my hair or not , I had a grasshopper named  Humphrey who rolled mud cakes with me , and  a moth  who munched  mint leaves  alongside  side me , it wasn’t  the  type  of stuff you  would write a  book about , but  it worked for me , as we get older  our ideas  and thoughts change , the  age gap between  the  people  we used  to look up  to  and  ,  even revere, somehow quietly  starts to shrink  until one day  we  find ourselves strangley  contemporaries , and  often  sadly  our heroes simply become human.

This isn’t always a bad  thing , we learn  from  the fall  of our heroes, depending on who they are in our life : sometimes  super man   turns out to just be  your big brother , and wonderwoman  after a few years  is , simply, your mom, and yes she is just as confused as you,  but maybe  somewhere in the process  you become  friends .

Its been a  really long time since  I made  mud pies with a grasshopper , or chewed on mint leaves with a moth , but I have been fortunate to  have some  good friendships  over the years , and even though  on  occasion  my heroes have been de-masked , I find I’m still  grateful  for  the time  in-between .

Still if traveling has  taught me anything , it’s that  you can absolutely  make  friends with anyone  anywhere,… even  with anything,  the first  to greet me  when I got off the  plane in  Lima  was  not  even a person , it was a blue  thread  wrapped over and over again around a  girls  thick black hair, she  had  the darkest hair I had ever seen in my life , darker than ink  on a white page  and here was this blue thread just waving  through the crowd  till it was out of  my line of sight . Sometimes images leave more  of  an imprint on  our minds than we can ever forget, I would like to think that  I wasn’t  fazed but  the  sight of  blue thread  will forever  be the  color  of the Andes  for me , everywhere I’ve gone  I  never failed to see this blue thread, In the mountains in Cuzco the women work  from sunrise  in their traditional dress:  felt hats, wool coats and  pleated skirts  of deep royal blue  velvet  spin  like tops as the women  wash clothes, tend to animals, and children, or fetch water . When I  traveled farther  inland the  skirts were strait  and the hair was  fixed  differently  but the skirts were  of  another  deep and beautiful shade of blue ,  the old buildings  in Cuenca are often trimmed in blue, people tell me  its the color of the virgin but I think it’s really the color of the people.

Every where I go , everywhere I look   I find this little  bit of blue thread reminding me where I’ve gone, sometimes , even,  without asking,

The other  day after I picked  up my clothes from  the laundry  I noticed  a  rather  long thread of  royal blue hanging from my brown  scarf , every washer woman has her  way, but as I continued  to look  through my clothes  I found that  everything had  been  sewn or otherwise marked with a little bit of blue thread , I couldn’t help but smile  it might  have  been  twenty  years  since  I felt the way I did making  mud pies , but that’s how I felt when I found all this blue thread , maybe batman  is really  just  a man in black socks and wonder woman burns your toast , or breaks your heart , whatever. I have found  greater joy,and even  kindness, in a simple blue  thread .

BCT & Friends touring Lima, Cuzco, Aguascalientes, Machu Picchu Peru

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sun and surf in montanitas

just enjoying another beautiful day here , the surf has been rather lovely all day, no more heat rip tides, at least none have botherd me , i’ll write more on that later.

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Cuzco Coca Leaves Revisited

a room with a view

When you get to Peru,  you’ll  notice that  things are considerably more  expensive  for the   unprepared.

I love  Peru, more the country  than the city  but  I thought  of   few minor  things that  I   learned  might help those of you  going through to  see some of the  must see  sites like the sacred valley, Machu Picchu, Wyna  Perna, Cuzco and  some of the  outer  lying villages: Puira, Aguascalientes …. and  so  on and so on.

1. First  things first   if your going to peru  your plane will land in lima , you can’t get around it believe me  I tried, it’s the capital  city and  the country  relies heavily on tourism,  so they take their  cut,   so  because of this I would  suggest  if you have any delays  and you think you would just rather  leave  and stay the night  at  a hotel  DONT,  save your money sleep at the airport   LIA is  safe the coffee rocks and  you ont have to  pay  the  32.00 [usd] airport tax not to mention  cab fare 25-30 dlr [usd] and  of course  one nights stay at the hotel 100-125 usd  of your drivers  choosing, (trust me even  if you think  your  ”shopping around “  it’s from a pre selected  list  honey, everyone gets a cut) so  yeah  unless your planning on seeing the sights in Lima, stay at the airport. However if lima is part of your  itinerary I recommend having a travel agency  book a Place for you ahead  of time , or if you like  check  out  this  B&B  I liked  called   “La porta  Hotel” ,  it’s on  the  street porta in a safe neighborhood , about a block  away  from the  malecon (harbor /coast)  the  prices are decent  and the rooms are clean  with lots of character , of my various  trysts with Lima, everything  fared much better when  the travel agency*  took  care  of the details, than when I tried to  wing it

[slideshow] 2. So  once get out of lima  you’ll probably fly into Cuzco , as the road  is  often labeled hazardous ( as much for the terrain as for the lack  of security ) and is often closed , so you’ll want to fly, try  to have your reservations made  in country  or at least with a  peruvian IP address , in theory  this can shave up to 50%  of your  cost , in any  case  again having a travel agency shop ahead  for you  is a great way  to cut cost because  prices  vary  a great deal depending on who  makes the  reservations  for  you: for  example   I stayed at Mr. INKAS  great  accommodating staff free internet  security, matte de coca upon  arrival : intermittent hot water until ten pm, then no hot water ,or  water  pressure, twenty  bucks per person kinda steep for the area but  you will  find  no better  remedy  for altitude sickness, or just general  well-being than a nice  traditional matte de coca, and for you tee totalers out there {hyuck hyuck} it takes like 12,000 lbs of  coca leaves to make like one gram of cocaine not to mention a whole chemical  processing …. thing, this  is  based off  of  AndreS’ (our Qichewa guide) brief  history of  what he called the mutation of his culture, wich started with cocaine and ended with  the introduction  and over use of red meat in what was once a  mainly vegetarian diet   [diners club might be worth looking into if  the idea  of uncertain rooming makes you  queezy] any ways, later on  my peeps in the business found some  rooms  in a cool little stone building  that ran like 12.00 usd per person and  included breakfast and [they said] hot water 24-7,

In any  case   for a relatively  small city  Cuzco  has a wealth of  texture and history, from the  Incan foundations,to the colonial  cathedrals, and the  artisan  markets , its one of my favorite  places .

row after row: some hostels have been taking in boarders for decades

* as a rule  of thumb any time I travel somewhere  new   where I dont  speak the language  especially well I have my  travel agency  call ahead  and make reservations  at smaller  more boutique  like  hostels  or hotels  where  folks tend to be  bi lingual and really push to be helpful oh, the agency’s  site  is www.bethecoachtours.com they keep me hooked up, an american  company with a bilingual staff offices  in  north and south america  go figure.

BCT & Friends touring Lima, Cuzco, Aguascalientes, Machu Picchu Peru

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Montanitas – All Things New/and old

this house sits on the road ro the nearest rain forest, the burro has only one ear.

Spring is in the air, as infectious as mono, pleasant, I know, but  the best  thing about  a new  beginning is possibly  the  chance share  a new adventure with an  old  friend and  by that  I mean  that  my  passport  is  longing for  a new stamp that’s right boys and girls ,  come august  I will  be able to go back to  South America [internal  yay!], this time my exploits  WILL be videotaped, sorry mom, aaaand ! I may have  the opportunity  to stay a spell longer than before , which I have exactly disused  with  any friends or family , which may be the reason  I  tend  to have more long-standing  relationships  with  cardigans and shoes than  with  friends and family , however I’m confident  that  when everyone sees my awesome  llama milking skills  on  live streaming video, my  popularity is bound  to  triple …. at least, in any  case on of the things I would like to focus on the  town  of Montanitas, I spent  the most time there  of any one place and wrote the least about it, I think because I enjoyed  the  dirty neo-hippie lifestyle, way too much : I stopped shaving it was  the  equivalent  of  spring break for southern France just before I left … blame the  beautiful, albeit hairy, French  women . I  took up  surfing , and  after a while got a little lax with showering [ocean  water  is very  astringent, no really] its true and because  of the awesomeness of this little town  they/ it / she ? what  is  the proper  gender  of a  township?… whatever  Montanitas  is wonderful I’ve never   been any where quite like  it  and  I can’t wait to  go back , so wait for the updates people cause they’re a coming.

p.s.  for those  of  you  out there  reading this  wondering how it’s possible for someone  to have access to spell check, use it, and still manage to  miss spell words  like  spring / or  orange, you’ll be happy  to find that  friends and family  have volunteered to  edit, my spelling  not  my randomness, or  run on sentences:  with an overall abuse  of punctuation. so  smile  maybe now the things I write about will be able to  be found  in search  engines , and browsers — live  well :) p.j.

Drum roll please…. Just a quick little video clip of RoCaPho enjoying in and around Montanitas Ecuador. A jungle excursion hunting for vegetable Ivory which Ca Pho were fascinated with as jewelry. A wet mucky day that took almost every form of transportation imaginable to get to the orig of where the vegie jewelry is supposedly hand made and guess what! It was.

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Getting Ready Ecuador and Mexico 2011

Hello Friends!
We (RoCaPho) are getting ready for our yearly excursion to Ecuador and Mexico. If you would like to come along your welcome to join us by means of this blog. We intend to do a few post on Rocky’s RDS & BCT Facebook page and also on this Blog. We promise not to send to much and bore u 2 tears but we thought you would enjoy knowing how our trip is going and viewing some of our photos.
We are for sure going digital this trip.  We will have 2 iPhone 4′s (one for Rocky and one for PhoGirl & Willie) and both have loaded on them a semi-professional photographers app that bar none is as good as it gets. Full of features that makes taking and posting pictures with comments easy.
Actually one of our iPhones we won’t even call it a phone but instead a camera being as how that will be it’s sole purpose. The App has a very nice operators manual embedded so hopefully by the time we arrive Ecuador (July 19) we will know how to use it to a reasonable degree. We are hoping our new camera apps on our iphones will make taking pictures a snap (excuse the pun).
Our primary blog will be this one so I’m sure sure it will be our main way of communicating with all your dear friends.

Bye for now will talk again soon!
Thanks Rocky, Camilla, & Phoenicia (form here on out know as RoCaPho)

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the cult of scruff, tango Fri, and wooden dolphins

Mean while back at the Manso, the gang has swelled to nine people cali girls and roca and myself (roca being Rocky and Willie you know one flesh and all) any back at the Manso after a lovely day at the district convention we all whent out to dinner at netos’ about a block from the Manso the portions are small by US rations but the flavor is high any way while I was chewing the fat, literally, with the gang I noticed something all the waiters, bus boys and dishwashers were impeccably groomed; like the arches in some of those brows were dug out with an orange stick and waxed to perfection however the patrons were scruffy uncut, un-shaved and generally unkempt, at least where we sat was nice but it got me thinking.. . . . Neatly trimmed hair used to be a sign of prosperity, and certain measure of confidence and self respect. But now my friends we’ve gone through the rabbit hole scruff is now way of sayin “I don’t have to shave for the man” wich is all well and good I mean its their hair do as you see fit but it’s really hot here, maybe the man foliage acts as a type of irrigation system dispensing the sweat….

Meanwhile I had an interesting discussion with the Polynesian wood working artist Tonu Shane over his collection here at the Manso and his overall intention for his work in general , his reply was simply that he wanted to “create something and let people discover what it meant to them” fair enough, ….. Downstairs it’s tango Friday the beat is faint until I sneak down stairs ; tango instructors fall into the grooming neutral zone (like a 7 on the ph scale) sure the hair is slicked back but it’s long and there is always invariably some kind of facial hair.

But enough of that, here is a few pics of Bethel Coach Tours and Friends at the English Disrict Convention near Guayaquil – soon ill post a collage of the convention…. enjoy

Later kiddos—-pj

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Blue threads pig skins,rain: keeping with tradition

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Back in banos I think I’m almost back to normal, getting here involved a 17 hour flight an8 hour bus ride and some serious low back pain( I was in another car accident but more on that later)
In any case BCT has a tradition of “go early stay late” a sort of mantra for exploring new countries and finding the sweet spots: the places or things that make something foreign feel like home, it’s a more the merrier kind of thing open to whomever wishes to come, this year I was lucky to be invited but also lucky that the cali girls came(Josie and Jess) I guess it just goes back to knowing who you can travel with , these girls fit the bill…. Anyway

To the sweet stuff , so it’s rainy season here in Banos,Ec which means service has it’s share of mudd, and my “no bunny” boots are still in Cayambe , any way so while we’re in country with no tour group type stuff ..

We go in service ,wherever that might be, and we just take a cue from the local brothers as how to do that, yesterday service was in Rio verde which is just a 20 km outside of Puyo. A semi tropical “semi rural” (by equadorean standards, not my own coddled US standards of course)
But I’m not complaining by any means the sceneary was lush,green, and it felt good to be out in the rain, or piled into a car with my brothers and sisters, even if we literally had to go through a tunnel over a mountain and into the woods to get there ,
…. Although the only snakes I saw were molting( is that what birds do?) anyway it was a pleasant day, folowed by some chote, a local dish of cooked Lima bean-ish things banana chips onion and tomatoe,and panfried pig skins if you want to up grade….

 Rocky and Willie will have different stories I’m sure, I guess his day involved. More wildlife a coati , to be exact some kind of jungle ferrit that tried to crawl up some brothers leg … But as the story goes he kept going with his presentation , which is just fantastic , then it rained some more… The funny thing is the sisters I whe’nt with thought I was tough, or maybe stupid, for not bringing a coat, didn’t give a second thought to walking against the flow of traffic on a narrow, concrete foot bridge over a small rushing stream,in a floral skirt to get to the next house( I on the other hand. Could’nt help but laugh at the irony, if I were to get squished by a banana truck in a foreign country the same week my health ins benefits kick in) any way it was a full day but I did’nt quite get home until around five thirty, I scrounged around for lentils but none were found,
So after a night cap,I when’t home, only to find the hostel over run with underage American teenagers and of age Germans ( do I even have to explaine why that’s a bad mix?) anyway if they try to do whatever it was that made all the noise last night, I might have to go up there and force feed them some liverwurst ,or something else stereotypical
And cliche.
In any case, that is the long drawn out reason behind why today was a lazy day, I slept till eight, had breakfast at Hostel Los Andes Banos Ecuador (run by a pioneer family in Banos and they make mean breakfast:-) took my clothes to wash a Carolinas , who even after a year still remembers me, asks about my parents and folds everything up with the same blue thread, it was just nice,
But then while eating my chicken soup( which is virtually the same in every country I love that!) I started to sneeze which was as good as any reason to get in the eucalyptus steam baths (a cure all for everything from acne, colds,and ruematism, to ingrown hairs and poor circulation at least according to the locals ) all in all it was a full day of little importance, but so times I think we need those days more than anything else.
Well that’s my bit ,live well—pj

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Puyo and water and water and more water

I’m not sure what got hit first my face or my stomach but I fell back against the stairs ..my hands were panicky and uncoordinated trying to hold myself down..,when being water boarded by mother nature you have a host of thoughts running through your head; cold , you feel cold , but more than anything else you feel the need to breath, but it’s not a need that can be met until it finally stops…

But I’m getting ahead of myself, today was a very full day. To say the least it started at eight with sunlight peaking through the curtains, waking me up, I’d lost my glasses so every thing was a fuzzy mangle of colors … But I managed to dress warm layers and my swim suit, we were going to puyo; equadores jungle gateway. To the amazon , after a quick cup of yogurt the group was off. We hopped a bus to rio verde first to see the waterfall. The locals calls “el pillion del diablo” which I believe translated to the devils caldron? Any way the trail to the falls is beautiful, nature at It’s best, then after a few meters down, you come to a small cafe (yes even here we find a cafe) called. What else” cafe pillion”, the suspension bridge just above the falls was closed for repairs so it was strait to the falls

PhoJess about to get wet at Diablo water falls

A short walk, then a sharp cold blast of air (by this point I was slightly ahead of the group) I saw the bottom of the stairs of the first level of the balcony facing the water , I made it about half way down the stairs when the water hit me, it was probably over in less than three seconds, but I screamed and gasped all the same, and I could hear Rocky laughing. So I grabed the rail and pulled myself down, finally on the balcony I felt safe, even silly for being so scared but.. I was wrong! Before I even turned to look another fist full of water hit me up side of my head, knocking me down, this time I popped up like a daisy ; head tucked to my chest sucking in air,… I caught myself screaming ” this was a bad idea!” again laughter from Rocky, another vicious blast of cold water and then a look of agreement, we grabed the rails and headed up a level totally soaked just moments before I had taken pictures with Jess , ignorant of the soggy mess we would soon be.

In my whole life, I’ve never been so wet. Seriously I’ve been in water (fully dressed) and been less wet. But the experience wasn’t over … You see if you turn to the right of the first balcony you’ll find there is the opening to a cave which leads to the back of the water fall…no I hadn’t learned my lesson and yes we climbed through it, now the opening is not very big mind you I’m. About 5’4 and I had to crawl or hunch the whole way , hunching over budding stalagmites and hunching beneath the would be stalactites until finally a rest, some make shift stairs in the rocks and a hole with some of the rock face scoured on the inside for traction, I’m wearing flip flops and the girls are in muddy flats, there is a muddy paste in between every single one of my toes but we go up,.. One at at time twisting My body , I go first one foot against the ledge one against the rock, then I’m there. The. crashing of the falls gives a dulling white noise effect, creating a semi silence,
I don’t feel cold any more but I’m still holding myself, and I feel…. Stupid so I let out a yelp ( which in my head is supposed to be loud and free ) I’m not a good yelper….so I feel stupider, I throw my hands to my sides and scream until I feel something Leave my lungs… i can finally breath without drowning…. but feel no sense of liberation, as just then suddenly the the falls quake and the water starts gushing out, even harder than before, darkening the little alcove, I catch myself screaming “I’m sorry!”

Pho swimming river Puyo entrance amazona

The girls come up, Josie first, (Jess couldn’t be without her camera and had gone back for it) and like a little kid I feel safer; not to be alone in the dark, but as we both look out over the water hands out like pilgrims I start to feel uneasy ; if I were to stick my hand into the falls it would snap like a dry chicken wing, eha…. We took our pictures (which none are posted here since they are on Jessica’s camera) and made it back while Camilla was surprised to see us back so soon(the recount is always wa—ay longer than the event) she was kind enough to give me my dry change of clothes, and the rather aghast group of French tourist coming up behind us was kind enough to let me cut in line to the bath room to change, I was that wet. Long story short that was the best cup of over priced coffee I have EVER had, it was glorious.

CaliGirls watch PhoGirl Swim Puyo River

This was followed by an hour and a half bus ride to Puyo, sitting which is a treat in Ecuador the busses take fares till the doors can’t close, but this road was soo bendy (bendy but beautiful like all dangerous things) the road to Puyo always makes me feel small, tiny, like a fruit fly… A really lucky fruit fly.

Any way once we got to Puyo we were starved, we devoured two volcatores (a nacho type dish like chote with canned tuna) and headed to the Puyo river it’s the beginning of the Amazon, and a local swimming hole after working up the nerve. To jump in alone, no one else had suits handy, I swam myself ragged. Eventually getting some locals to jump off the rocks with me, not cliff jumping mind you just good clean fun. Kind of like being allowed to go play after getting spanked; you forget the punishment and the lesson but find yourself sore, and wonderfully exhausted.

Sign Puyo advertising delicious Volcatores in restaurant overlooking river entrance Amazona

The bus back home was full and I have just enough energy to finish this post and pass out, no advice of my own tonight,just a quote I found at the reserve that stuck with me

” the good man is always free, even as a slave, the wicked always a slave even when king” — unknown
good night kiddos– pj

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The wet and sweaty road to Guayaquil

JoJess on Chivas on ride up mountain overlooking Banos at night.Banos at night after riding to top on Chivas

Have you ever noticed how some people when they travel just can’t Help but look like dirty sweaty, albeit well fed refugees? My mother recently commented to me that when she was a young girl she was often confused by the shabby appearance of the American tourist; the occasional surfer bum, or just a group of kids looking to have a good time in sunny Mexico (my Mexican family likes to tell a story about how they weren’t quite sure how my father could afford to buy my mother flowers when he didn’t seem to even own a shirt, or shoes), any way I found this conversation haunting as I woke this morning, I had stayed out the night before to ride the Chiva (more on that later – see pics of Banos @ night) and awoke around three, one of my roommates was snoring, I won’t say who…. But I will say I was concerned whoever was making that noise may have swallowed a badger, given we’re in Ecuador ….possibly some kind or rare jungle badger, any way it was early and and I felt like I had been hit by a truck (the day before I had tried an ionic foot bath ewe!) so looking pressed was kinda low on my priority list, but I gotta say I reached a new low….

My kakis had gotten wet in the Puyo river, I did not wash them; I let them air dry…they fell off the balcony into the garden of the Chimenaya hostel,where they were closely guarded by the hostels bunny; Matea, ….I still didn’t wash them, instead I put them on and got on the Chiva , a word of advice; bring a group large enough to dictate the type of music that will be played: the Chiva is a Banen style tour bus (a flat bed with wooden trolly style seats and strobe,lights,speakers strong enough to correct/cause a heart murmur ) the tour ended I went home to the hostel put on my stretchy pants sand when’t to bed I awoke, I did not shower, I brushed my teeth, put the khakis on over the a fore mentioned stretchy pants, made sure every thing was packed and I when’t down stairs it was now about 5:15 am the owner of the hostel said he had not located a taxi as promised, illness in the family, but he didn’t think to call a replacement….it was raining outside and we were walking ….the bus was late but we were finally on the road by 6:20 , but as I said before I had wet my pants with river water, they dried and then it rained, the rain in effect re-moistened the dried river water so I smelled like …river water which is not bad when it’s in the river, but whenever you apply the scent characteristics of one object to another it’s almost always a bad thing ex: “billies feet smell like blue cheese” =bad “my sofa smells like grand mum”=bad pho’s pants smell like river…. See what I mean?

The hair was also awful, made worse by the seven hour ride and nauseating turns on my empty stomach …I ate a little chocolate cake…bad idea When we arrived at the terminal terrestre aka the bus station, I switched into a skirt it was about ten degrees warmer. But it felt like twenty, I had one feather earring in the other lost, defeated and hungry I consoled myself in a bowl of lentils from KFC, which is freakishly popular here, and then sucsess another foreign girl with one feather earring in a long skirt, who had clearly given up on hair care weeks ago,…. And the best part? I wasn’t looking at a mirror! It was a real person! The joy in another’s gnappy-ness is joy doubled my friend, yes I’m still propagating a stereotype but at least I’m not doing it alone. :)

Tips/ lessons learned

1. Reserve all tickets ahead of time bus station hours here are from 8-5

2. don’t sit in the back or by the wheels of the bus

3. A little dry shampoo goes a long way

4. if you have to ask if something’s Dirty: it is

5. When getting a taxi a Guayaquil’s grand terminal go to the far right end of terminal & fares are pre set as taxis are waiting a manager will help you and tell you the fare ahead of time.

K kiddos that’s all I have for today, Live well—p

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Ecuador English District Convention then Breakfast in Mantanitas

Sunday: a absolutely wonderful three days of spiritual feasting. Even though all in the group had been to their convention back in the states this one was surely special. Over 70% of those in attendance were in some special form of the ministry. Need Greaters, Pioneers, Special Pioneers, Missionaries, Traveling Brothers and Bethelites from Ecuador and NY.

Monday : Its now about ten am and I feel like a bum, so far today I’ve managed a run on the beach and a few futile attempts to eat breakfast, ask for breakfast, beg for coffee, were staying at Charo’s with a group, and I find that even when I try to make eye contact with the wait staff my timing is so excellent that I always manage to get their back.

Tuesday: nine thirty sharp, the group pre-orders my juice, were going to Puerto Lopez today, going to be on a boat so light meals ,

Wednesday: exhausted from the whaling and apt hunting ( more on that later ) I come down before the group, followed by rocky looking for his belt and the car keys, and Willie. (He found the belt in Ca of RoCaPho’s purse & the car keys at the bar; ok so i found all the above) – back to the subject of the waitstaffs blind spot, all but one of the young waiters comes over , but it’s the nice one smile forever on his face gingerly walking in-between. The tables, today were Going to Salines, then back to the Manso and to bethel in three days I’ve seen whales dance made new friends, gotten in a pushing match with a shyster waiter, I’m tired. (Stay tuned for dancing whale videos ASAP)

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Whale watching in Puerto Lopez, Ecuador

There is something special about getting out on a boat and going to find whales, to observe of course : this isn’t a story about a doomed whaling expedition….

So theres the feeling of being on a boat and looking for the whales but there’s nothing quite like the feeling when you find what your looking for…. The whole trip is three hours at the most, but it seems lik an eternity of ups and downs; up to meet the wave down to hitting the water…. The Captain looking out the window with his entire body, then finally we slow to a lull and wait …a few seconds and then wam! A shower of salt water a few yards off I’ll try not to say too much more that’s what the pictures are for .

(see videos of whales breaching and dancing)

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Moon’s over Manta

Some of the best advice I ever heard one man give another was this ; ‘ never try to court a girl you meet in a dark room’ I still haven’t quite figured out what that means exactly…. But I’m sure it’s applicable to the first three or so days of our stay in Manta, but please let me explain;

While at the Manso Willie and myself are left to pack and settle our acct…. Rocky whent to get a rental car we had gotten the day before.., so a cop shows up on a vespa, himself not areo dynamic in shape, starts an issue over what counts as parking and what counts as “loading” …
More on that later … So we leave … Rushed to get out of Guayaquil that we ignore the srange noise In the back; all the tires were bald , including the spare and when I say bald I mean that they were soo wiry wires were exposed to the piont that just picking up the tire sliced my hands up, this ordeal took about three days to correct (one day, a Sunday involved accidentally leaving Willie to guard the car, while we went from the only tire repair shop open on a Sunday to the only supermarket open on a Sunday, which in turn did not carry the size we needed… Only to exit the store to realize the cabby had left us and we had no idea where we had left Willie) in the end we had to buy two new tires (65usd each) and we are now driving around with the superfluous spent tires in the trunk… Because at some point I tend to use these tires as a point of conversation… Because it upset. Me

Pho's of RoCaPho Bleeding Thumb & bald tire with steal barbs for thread

p.s. we finally found Willie tired hungry and thirsty…. BUT on a more positive side  filed service in Manta is fantastic and fruitful and we will get our money back for the car and the tires and maybe even some to repair the steal barbs from the tires still stuck in my fingers!!!

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Photo Albums of Manta & English District Convention & Branch Tour Ecuador

Well while Pho of RoCaPho is back in the USA attending and enjoying her Pioneer School thought I would contribute a couple of photo albums in her absence. These two albums are of the Branch in Ecuador and the English District Convention also at the Ecuador Branch.

Every year Bethel Coach Tours brings a group of friends to Ecuador to enjoy a wonderful spiritual Feast in a outdoor pavilion on Branch property near Guayaquil.

The group doesn’t go to manta (did in past years but included whale watching in Puerto Lopez instead) so her are a few snap shots of  Manta where we are currently serving with a small English Group preaching in a huge English territory.

Manta Ecuador   English District Convention and Ecuador Branch Tour

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Mad about Manta : fish , food , friends , and the last five (eight) lbs

I didn’t die I just got fat , in case anyone was wondering , and it was the pathetic kind of aggressive fat , the kind where the bones and organs seem to digest the protein of your muscles [the way a python swallows a guinea pig] and leaving behind only a ,memory foam like, soft frame of the tone, fit ,person you used to be… the culprit : pioneer school*, to be more specific all the loving supportive people who decided to feed the people at pioneer school, and who came up with creative little snacks like the sour cream and cream of chicken soup drenched hash brown casserole now residing as back fat….
but i should be ok im back home in Manta a fridge full of green leafy things and
Lean fish, not to mention walking lots and lots of walking , manta a city of about 1/2 million in every direction it can.

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Quito: three million and counting

Qito: pink scarf

CENTER OF THE WORLD MONUMENT: WINDY DAY

At the moment I’m totally exhausted,siting at the table while a small black dog is scratching at the window facing the garden….( I need to get on with what’s been happening before the cook tries to sell me some type of Ecuadorean Avon … its too late.. i have a weakness for samples ..any way.. Quito..)

So Quito was initially a city mainly inhabited by the Quitus an indigenous tribe, [the cities namesake] After years of war with, the ever-expanding Incan empire , Led by emperor Tupac, The Quitus decided to form a marriage alliance between Tupac and a Quitenio princess , prince Atawalpa Was the result, and Quito became part of the Incan empire at least until Tupac died and divided his masive empire between his first son the Incan prince of Cuzco —- and Atawalpa… Well like most older siblings —- did not want to share and war raged on, and finally— betrayed his bother to the Spanish, not wanting to pass up a chance to colonize the Spaniard conquistadors, executed Atawalpa, and built their colonial Grid system on the foundation of the captured Incan city.

Today modern-day Quito ( the official capital of Ecuador) boasts a population of 2.3 million and growing, largely in part to the heavy influx of Colombian migrant workers and ,surprisingly a strong Haitian population (Pr. Correa offered asylum after the massive earthquake), Quito continues to be a mix of old , new, and ever evolving traditions.

So… upon arriving at the , international airport ( 30 min from Manta) Rocky, Willie ,and myself are met by Liz and David (they’re basically the Quito office for Bethel Coach Tours) , now Liz is Ecuadorean by birth and David hailed from Wisconsin, USA, initially, [however] after five minutes in the car , I realize he has become a true Ecuadorian ; switching lanes like a NASCAR driver , ignoring the lane dividers and keeping the little Chevy Vitara in 5th as much a humanly possible… For good reason we need to be at Liz’s mothers in time for lunch.

Lunch on Monday is a savory almuerzo of Caldo de Reyes , basil chicken with rice and strawberries in cream, dinner is fire roasted chicken skewers and chocklo in chimichuri sauce with something that basically looks like cracklings all over it potatoes and Lima beans are served in a similar fashion as chips and salsa (if this sounds nasty good … It was :)

Tuesday was a parade of colors for breakfast papaya /banana /scrambled eggs sat next to my espresso and fresh squeezed orange juice,and fresh bread with marmalade , Lunch was a puree of plantain soup fresh cheese and chicken in mushroom sauce with fresh juice of course…. By this point I could see why David and Liz came here, and I was beginning to wonder if I would go back, yes we all worked , errands were run , chores were done but every meal was a family meal eaten together and in spite of how much I’m eating, I’m still losing weight (the food is fresh and life is good)

Wednesday was a trip to the center of the world (well at least the center of the world monument and the real geographical monument) now the world monument is housed in an artisan type city representing the different areas and indigenous groups that give Ecuador its unique flavor but I need to wrap it up for now. Tomorrow is Otavalo and Cotopaxi which means blankets and boots…. Do I really need to explain myself?

Until tomorrow kidos—-pj

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Banos of Cuenca: The Piedra de Agua spa

Good Dirt

I have very little recollection of any thing that happened last night, that sounds worse than it is, let me explain when I came to Ecuador, I went and had one of those ionic foot bath things, it was disgusting and resembled something you might find left over from cleaning a fish tank, the foot bath ladies advice was you need to be less stressed (yeah I’ll get right on that…) sensing perhaps my disbelief she pinched my skin and said something like your skin is like your second kidneys… If that’s true it was beginning to look like my “kidneys” were in bad shape.Worry over the skin/ kidney led me to worry over my liver and eventually to wonder ‘exactly where is the spleen?’
So fast forward to yesterday at lunch eating a soup made of a debauchery of pork products and trying to see if I can consciously “feel” my spleen working what, at this point has to be a double shift, the women start talking about The Banos of Cuenca, in particular some kind of spa called “Piedra de Agua”, so we go,
and for those who say getting there is half the fun, in this case they’re on crack, because it was raining and the cab driver did not know how to get there and left us on a muddy road in the middle of a bunch of houses that were not thermal volcanic pieces of harmony … a lot of walking , and aggressive questioning of whose idea this was initially, and a cab ride later.. and we were there: getting there in the rain not fun: being there in the rain totally fun.

The spa is centered around three thermal pools similar to the ancient roman baths ( tibia, fria ,caliente) with treatments ranging from 10-60 usd.per package.Astheticaly speaking its beautiful a modern mix of natural elements, like red volcanic rock,polished red stained wood and glass walls, so you always feel protected from the elements but never away from nature.
But the baths my skin will never forget , we began with a turkish bath (using the natural water from the area nothing chlorinated) for 15 minutes, you sit purging pores of impurities and basically having dead skin roll off, then a cold shower after wich point and assistant leads you to a jacuzzi style mud bath where you rub warm wet volcanic clay over your entire body whatever dries pulls impurities from your skin with a warming tingle ( and when I say tingle I mean tingle, it’s not a euphemism for pain) this lasts about thirty minutes followed by a rinse in the clay water, and a warm shower out side of the steam caves. Inside the caves the caves I found a rather peaceful arrangement of flowers floating in water and candles lighting the way the way to hot and cold thermal waters, the group then alternated between hot (10min) and cold (2 min), but after the first plunge in the cold water i found my tolerance for all the different temperatures greatly improved.
then from the thermal caves to the box sauna (these models allow you to control your own steam ) 45 min, and a cool shower later … I find I cant stop touching the skin on my face … had I know there would have been before and after pictures as is I managed to lose about 10cm on my waist and my skin from head to toe improved greatly.
then from the organic restaurant to the cab ride home I remember very little …EXCEPT for waking up 12 hours later rubbing my feet against my own calves and thinking ” my god I feel fantastic”

lessons learned
1. [if] the cabby [doesn't have GPS] [he] will still say he knows where he is going
2. if you find yourself unduly angry with your friends because your walking in the rain and its cold, make sure it wasn’t your idea to get out and walk in the first place
3. no amount of pre-sauna exfoliation will ever keep all the nasty stuff from peeling off just go with it

THATS ALL I HAVE TAKE CARE/ LIVE WELL—PJ
www.piedradeagua.com.ec

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TAXCO: Sun rain and lots of walking in the City of silver

no hablas espanol?

I  do actually speak , read, and write in Spanish (or Castilian for you  fancy lispers) just can’t say  that I do it well. All the  same I get the above question a lot .

So were here in Taxco, the streets aren’t lined  with gold , just trimmed in iron pyrite , and the shops are filled with silver , similar to Quito , Taxco  is built-in the colonial   style, entirely in the  colonial style , unlike other  cities that try to distance  themselves  from their  past  Taxco has  found a pace that  works for them and they stick to it . The public transportation is  almost entirely com-bis  (VW vans from the sixties) and  white bugs (passenger seat removed  to  make getting in and out easy) , and then they’re the hills ,  the hardest thing to find in Taxco is flat  ground , everything  is built up against the cascading  hills, paved in cobble stone  and painted  white with red roofs, whether you’re going  for a bowl of posole , (made better in the state of Guerrero THAN ANY WHERE ELSE  I’m told)  or  just taking a stroll your taking it at an angle , still even the rather intense  physical  pain in my calves  seems to lend to th e charm of this city .

LESSONS LEARNED

1. The word for  column and  female nudist are  dangerously similar (more on that later)

2. its ok if your wheezy and sweaty, the word turist easily translates to spanish

k, until tomorrow  , live well,—pj

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Left full of posole.. and a full heart

So of the  folks  in the  Taxco english  group, the  youngest  are  three 16 year old best friends [two girls and a guy] who invited us tonight  to  have supper : Posole blanco, ( on a sunday in Taxco, not done, a big deal)  its our last night  and given that we came in on Posole it  seems appropriate, and kinda  bitter-sweet. We get there  crawling up to Ebbers [the boys] house , and after a stretch  the house  fills – maria, and ana [the girls ] show up ,  Travis , Anita, belly swollen, the boys  and  even Ebers’ family  fill the house  along with  the aroma  of the broth , the  cheese, onions and avocados,… we  laugh .. talk,  look at  silver [ tis Taxco] and the night  ends as pleasantly as it began. So instead of being sad  at leaving I’ve  decided  just  to be determined  to  come back, for  a second bowl at least. :)

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